How-to Library

Paint a Ceiling

Paint the edge of the ceiling where it meets the wall.
Feather the Paint 2 to 3 inches onto the ceiling. If you are not going to be painting the walls, use painter's tape to block off the edges. Otherwise, brush the ceiling paint onto the edge of the walls.
Paint the rest of the ceiling with a roller. Start at the corner of the ceiling nearest to a window, so you can see the light reflect off the wet paint.
Keep your roller loaded and work your way from an unpainted area toward a wet area. Paint the ceiling in one session so it dries uniformly.
Check the paint can for recommended drying times. If a second coat is needed, wait for the first coat to completely dry before adding a second coat of paint.

Use Painters Tape to cover the ceiling line, baseboards, and around windows and doors. Remove all switchplates and tape over the outlets.
Start by slowly painting on the ceiling line where the wall and ceiling meet to "cut in" the paint.
Feather in the paint 3-5 inches down the wall. Repeat this step around baseboards, outlets, and any areas where you can't reach with a roller.

Remove doors, drawers, and all hardware to give yourself a flat surface. Set these aside in a place that gives you space to work, and can leave them for extended periods to dry.
Lightly sand the cabinets using a medium grit sandpaper (100-150 grit). After each sanding, wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove the dust and debris.
Use primer and dry for at least 24 hours before lighlty sanding the surface with a fine, 220 grit sandpaper.
Apply first coat of paint with a roller or nylon brush. Allow paint to dry completely before lightly sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. Wipe down surface with a damp cloth, and repeat this step for your second coat of paint.
Allow the second coat of paint to dry completely for 2-3 days before reassembling your cabinet.

Inspect the trim for stains, scuff marks, and damage. These areas should be claened and repaired prior to painting. If there are gaps between the trim and wall, you should fill these in with a quality, paintable caulk.
Lightly sand the surface to help the paint adhere. Use a damp cloth the remove dust and debris, before applying primer with a nylon brush.
Start applying your first coat of paint on the crown molding, then work your way to the windows and doorframes, before finishing on the baseboards. Be sure to apply the paint in a smooth stroke to achieve a professional quality finish.

Remove the door handle and other hardware. Alternatively, you can tape these areas off with painters tape.
Lightly sand to scuff the surfaces you are painting.
Start painting the door top to bottom, working from the edges inward. On a paneled door, paint the inside of the panels first, then paint the ares around the panels.
Give the paint time to dry before sanding and applying a second coat of paint. Attach the door knob and hardware to the door after the second coat of paint has dryed completely.

Begin by loading the paint roller gently in the pan, and apply the paint from the top of the wall down, with the edges overlapping approximately 3-5 inches. With each pass, use a light up and down movement.
Keep your roller loaded with paint. After you reload it, start from an unpainted area and work your way toward the wet area.
Once finished with the first coat, wait until the paint is completely dry before working on the second coat.

Use a sponge with warm water and grease cutting detergent to wipe away any grime from the walls. Afterwards, wipe them down with a damp cloth to remove dirt, dust, and debris.
If mold or mildew is present, mix four parts water with one part bleach and apply the mixture to the mold area with a sponge. Allow the solution to sit on the mold for a few minutes, then wipe it off with clean water and allow the area to dry.

Use a utility or putty knife to widen cracks and remove any loose material.
Brush or vaccum the area to remove dust or debris. Leaving these will affect how the filler dries.
Load your putty knife with spackle or joint compound, and slide the putty across the area with even pressure to fill the affected area. You may need to repeat this a few times depending on the depth or size of the hole. Allow each layer to dry before adding another one.
After the filler has fully dried, lightly sand with fine grit sandpaper, then wipe with a damp cloth or sponge.

If working with new, untreated wood, you need to break the mill glaze. Use any prep product and be sure to scrub it in after applying it. After rinsing with a hose and drying for 48 hours, sand your deck with 80 grit sandpaper.
Test the stain color on a spare piece of lumber, then apply the stain onto your deck with a roller. Brush in the stain on areas where needed.
Follow the direction of the boards to make sure the stain dries evenly. Avoid staining in direct sunlight, if possible.
Let the stain dry for 48 hours before heavy foot traffic.

Remove non-permanent hardware for a more even working surface.
Clean the surface by scraping away at large problem areas and lightly sanding down with a fine grit sandpaper (medium grit for oil based paint).
Use painters tape to cover permanent hardware.
Apply primer evenly with an angled brush.
Cut in the smaller areas of the door with an angled brush, then cover larger spaces with a roller on the first coat of paint.
Once the first coat has dried for 24 hours, lightly sand the door before applying the second coat of paint. After another 24 hours of drying, reattach the hardware and take off any tape.